
Muonio is very close to our hearts in many ways – both of us moved there from southern Finland to become nature and wilderness guides and on top of that, both of Emmi’s parents grew up there. It is a perfect place for a school about wildlife since the area is mostly uninhabitated: there are many lakes and rivers for canoeing and fishing, big swamps, old beautiful forests and fells reaching over 800 meters above the sea level. Being part of Lapland, there’s a proper winter in the area, at least for a while still. The thing to be really proud of is that there you’ll breath the cleanest air in the populated earth. Muonio is also the place where we met and fell in love.

We hopped on a bus with our bikes in Kilpisjärvi to get to our former home village. It felt so good to be back there – to meet friends and Emmi’s relatives we had been missing, bike around without trailers for a while, rest a bit and enjoy some proper Finnish food. After moving everyday for two weeks it was so nice to have a basecamp for a few days.
Guess it’s true what the locals say about wintertime in Muonio: “There is nothing else to do in winter than make love”. We moved from Muonio only a year ago and quite many of our friends there had a new born baby or were just about to have one. The autumn in the village will be all about anticipation and baby showers. Soon there will be as many toddlers as there are reindeer in Muonio (maybe a bit of exaggeration).

After a few days in Muonio we hopped on our bikes again and headed towards Äkäslompolo, a village next to Muonio. We cycled around 60 kilometres to our friend’s cabin in the center of the village. This was going to be our last stop before returning back home to Helsinki from our awesome adventure.
Our first destination sightseeing in Äkäslompolo was a fell called Kuertunturi. Some of us hadn’t been there before, so we decided to head up to see the views from the top. First we followed a path but decided at some point to take the shortest way up which was straight through the forest. The views from the top are so beautiful and calming towards the fell Ylläs and the lake Äkäslompolo (yes, the village has gotten it’s name from the lake). We took some group photos and had some snacks while enjoying the fresh air in the heights.


Äkäslompolo is a good choice if you like cycling. There are routes from short and rather easy to quite long and more challenging, going around lakes and on top of fells. There’s something for everyone’s needs and likes, and the environment is so beautiful and close to nature. There are many places in the village that rent bikes, including fat bikes. Our friends wanted to join us on a bike day tour so they decided to rent mountain bikes, and the five of us headed to Kesänkijärvi. We had so much fun on the narrow paths going through swamps and forests!
Since we wanted to make the most of the time we had in precious Lapland, we went on a small escapade before our departure on the last day. Our first stop was at the Kirkkopahta Seida Rock, which has been a place of worship, a church of sorts for Sámi people. There you could make offerings, such as meat or fish, in the hopes of getting prosperity in return.
The next place was Pakasaivo, a Saivo Lake, which is also called the “Hell of Lapland”. The lake is an ancient gathering and sacrifical place for the Lappish people. It is 60 meters at its deepest and measured from the surface of the water the sides rise up to 60 meters in height. Since the waters on the bottom and on the surface never mix, the bottom is almost oxygen-free and very high in sulphur. This is why everything that’s sunk to the bottom is preserved for hundreds of thousands of years.
After some delicious pizza in Eväskori it was time to say goodbye to our friends and Lapland, and jump on a night train to Helsinki. Luckily our home welcomed us with a stunning misty morning which made it feel okay to be back in the south.

We’ll be back one more time with the route maps and stats from our trip – with some highlights from the most exciting cycling summer. Stay tuned and see you soon!
– Emmi & Joel























































































































